Battered Suitcases

A rough patch.

When we left Broken Hill, our Australian adventure entered into a little bit of a rough patch. We headed to Wagga Wagga (as had been planned for months) to check out the casual/supply/sub* teaching situation. The paperwork was completed months in advance. The $100 union fee was paid. We were ready to settle down and start earning money. To make a long story short… this is where we discovered that despite what we were told by the Department of Education, there is no real need for casual teachers in New South Wales. In fact, many of the local teachers were struggling to get enough days. (Plus, you have to apply in person at each individual school instead of using an online system for an entire district.) We were qualified, approved, and flexible… but it just wasn’t going to happen.

And then we were woken at 3am one night by drunk cowboys on horseback whooping and hollering through our campsite. That was the actual low point. I think my exact words were, “I want to go home.”

So we did. Sort of. We decided to head back to our Australian home-away-from-home: Newcastle.

Photos from near Nelson Bay after we returned to Newy.

One of the best decisions of the trip.

xo, jill

*Can we please decide on one term for this worldwide? Needlessly confusing.

Last glimpse at the Outback.

Here are a few more shots from our time in Broken Hill.

Both evenings we drove outside of town to watch the sunset and eat a picnic dinner. One of those nights we even splurged on raspberries. Such a treat.

Other sources of entertainment included visiting Bell’s Milk Bar, a soda shop set in the 1950s, and playing at the Big Bench.

I definitely enjoyed our little foray into the outback but it was time to head back to civilization.

xo, jill

Population: Teeny tiny

About 25 kilometers away from Broken Hill is the teeny tiny town of Silverton. The town sprang to life back in 1875 when two workers drilling a well came across a large silver deposit. By the 1890s the town boasted a population of 3,000 but it wasn’t to last. The richer deposits at Broken Hill soon lured the majority of the population away. By 1901 Silverton could only claim 300 residents. Today Silverton is very nearly a ghost town. The 2006 census reported 89 people still living there but Wikipedia states that currently the population is closer to 50. I guess a few families must have moved away over the past few years.

Only a few buildings in town are still in tact. Others have either crumbled over time or were moved elsewhere. Many of the families once residing in Silverton lived in canvas houses. When it was time to move on their homes were packed up and brought along with them. Fascinating. The remaining buildings have been put to good use as cafes, galleries, and a museum dedicated to Mad Max 2.

Ghost towns are a bit sad in my opinion. The life is gone and only the skeleton remains. I suppose they are good reminders that towns are only as rich as the people living in them. I’m accustomed to thinking of cities as permanent fixtures but really it only takes a change in resources or industry for them to falter.

xo, jill

Drag optional.

When we arrived in Broken Hill our first order of business was to find a room for the night. It was far too hot for camping and the hostels were full. We set out walking up and down main street looking for pubs and hotels. We settled on staying at The Palace and it just so happens it’s famous.

The Palace was built in 1889 as a dining and coffee venue. The second floor verandah is not only amazing, it’s the longest in New South Wales and is heritage listed. However, perhaps the more famous feature of the hotel is the extensive murals on the walls and ceilings. Mario, a previous owner and local legend, first painted a replica of Botticelli’s Venus on the ceiling. He later welcomed Gordon Waye to paint additional murals around the hotel. The goal was for the walls to feature water scenes to create an oasis in the middle of the desert.

I loved these chairs.

The Palace became world famous when it was featured in the 1994 cult classic The Adventures of Priscilla Queen of the Desert. It was fun to watch the movie from inside our room and see scenes from the hotel.

I love old hotels in general so to stay in one that has become an icon was an added bonus.

xo, jill

The view from Broken Hill.

After hiking and camping in the Flinders Ranges, Mike and I started the long drive out to Broken Hill. We wanted an outback experience and Broken Hill seemed like our best bet. After arriving and settling in at our hotel, we drove a few miles outside of town to a place so flat you can reportedly see the curvature of the earth.

I’m not sure if I could see the earth’s curve, but it was a nice lookout nonetheless. I can’t imagine being an early explorer and willingly heading out into that outback… without air conditioning.

xo, jill