Bright and early.

Day two of our tour began bright and early with a hike before breakfast. We docked at Titop Beach Island to climb the 340 steps to a lookout on the top of the rocks. It’s not too difficult of a climb if you go slowly but it’s up, up, up!

From the top you get a nice view of the water and boats below.

Mike staged a falling photo but after actually looking at the railing, that was probably a bad idea.

After the hike we ate breakfast and separated into two groups. Those who booked a two day tour and those who booked a three day tour. Our group, the three day tour, was much smaller. We were joined by an older Dutch couple who were very friendly and jovial. The two day group returned to the mainland while we ventured on.

First, we biked through Cat Ba National Park to a few villages. We stopped to quickly look at few local buildings but I was distracted a bit by the cute dogs and cats. Then we took an easy trek through the forest to a “cave of bat” according to the itinerary. During the hike we were able to talk to our guide about the American/Vietnam War. He reassured the group (well, me) that the Vietnamese don’t feel bitter towards American tourists, even though there are plenty of consequences from the war still lingering. It was fascinating to listen to the Dutch couple’s perspective being from a country that has also been occupied.

After hiking we climbed back on our bikes and returned to the boat for lunch.

xo, jill

As long as it floats.

After getting settled on the boat, eating lunch, and visiting the cave, we had the chance to kayak. The weather was a bit chilly so not everyone took the opportunity. There was no doubt for Mike and me, even when we saw the equipment. We were by far the shabbiest looking kayak crew, but as long as it floats!

We kayaked through a cave (more like a tunnel) into a calm and wide lagoon. Monkeys sometimes play here but they had better things to do on this day.

At dinner later that evening we were able to get to know our fellow travelers a bit better. I’m happy to report that everyone on our tour was lovely.

xo, jill

A big decision.

Booking our Halong Bay tour was probably the most daunting decision making of our entire trip. We knew we wanted to take a tour. I knew I wanted to sleep on the boat. But we didn’t know which of the many companies to trust. Our heads were spinning.

After doing a lot of internet research* and inquiring at a few tour agents, we decided to book with Vega Travel. We could have paid less for our tour but decided to take the advice of most travelers: Do not skimp on your Halong Bay experience.

We chose a 3 day, 2 Night (1 boat, 1 hotel) tour that included opportunities to kayak, bike, cave, and hike. (You’ll notice that most of the tours are the same with only slight variations.)

Halong Bay is a UNESCO World Hertiage Site and was recently voted as one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature. Halong Bay is famous for the thousands of limestone karsts that stick up out of the water. The misty fog that often covers the bay contributes to the very mystical and mysterious atmosphere. It’s easy to see why visiting the bay is on nearly every tourist and traveler’s list.

Ok, so the tour began when we were picked up at our hotel. We drove out to Halong Bay and began cruising on the water.

We saw the iconic Fighting Cock islet and took in the scenery.

After lunch we visited Hang Sung Sot (Surprising Cave). The cave was large and did indeed hold a surprise…but I think I’ll let you see for yourself if you ever visit.

After the cave we kayaked but I think I’ll save that for another post.

xo, jill

*There are horrifying stories out there. Like not being fed enough food, rats on the boats, and coming back with a broken nose! I found this article really helpful. In the end we chose a company that was listed in Lonely Planet, had a recent good review on Thorn Tree, and whose office we had already seen in town.

and here’s why.*

Turtle Tower sits to one side in Hoan Kiem Lake in Hanoi. This is what it looks like at night.

xo, jill

*from Night’s Nice by Barbara and Ed Emberley

Lost in translation.

A very interesting site in Hanoi to visit is the Hoa Lo Prison. I didn’t take too many photos because really, it’s kind of an eerie place. Before visiting I only had a vague idea of the prison. I knew it was where American prisoners of war were kept, but that’s about it. Turns out, before the Vietnamese used the prison to jail the Americans, the French used the prison to jail the Vietnamese.

Built in the late 1880s while Vietnam was under French rule, the prison was used to detain Vietnamese political prisoners. Naturally, the Vietnamese people wished to govern themselves and to be free of foreign powers. The French did everything possible to prevent that from happening. Torture, executions, and miserable living conditions were the norm. For example, the prison was built to hold 600 prisoners but in 1954 (when France withdrew) it held 2,000.

The displays at Hoa Lo Prison are quite somber…that is until you get to the American side.

The Vietnamese are eager to show how well American prisoners were treated during the Vietnam War. There are photos of Christmas parties and cheerful artwork made by prisoners displayed on the wall. You’d think they were having a pretty good time. A video even stated that the prisoners were so well cared for at the prison that they gave it the nickname, “Hanoi Hilton.” I think sarcasm must get lost in translation.

Pulling John McCain out of the water.

I will admit to being really confused. Although I’m not a Vietnam War scholar, I learned enough during high school history class and the McCain campaign to know it wasn’t all ping pong and dance parties for the POWs. When we returned to our hotel room a quick Google search confirmed what we already suspected. It was actually a pretty nasty place.

Visiting the Hoa Lo Prison was a good reminder for me that there are many different perspectives to history.

xo, jill

Reading is sexy.

After lunching at KOTO, we crossed the street to the Temple of Literature. The temple was first built in 1070 and is dedicated to Confucius and scholars. In addition, the Temple of Literature was the first university in Vietnam. It focused on training princes and other talented men with the focus on benefiting the country.

Photo by Mike

The next stop on our sightseeing itinerary: the Hanoi Hilton.

xo, jill