I’ve been procrastinating on this post because I didn’t want to sound like a cranky old grandma, but here goes…
I knew that if Mike and I argued on this trip, it would be in Vang Vieng. He really wanted to go (again). I really didn’t.
Vang Vieng seems to be one of those places that elicits strong feelings on both sides. Those who think it’s a backpackers paradise, and those who think it’s a… what’s a more polite word for sh*thole? (Ok, a sh*thole set amidst pretty scenery.)
Vang Vieng is a town dominated by tourism. The popular attraction is tubing down a river lined with bars, slides, swings, and ziplines. After a wild day on the water you can relax at one of the many restaurants serving sub par food and looping episodes of Friends or Family Guy. Drugs are either on the menu or easy to get. There are a lot of scantily clad people zoned out, lounging, or walking around. Honestly, the whole place is kind of weird (and sad).
Twenty seven people died in Vang Vieng last year. Mixing drinking, drugs, an unpredictable river, and rope swings tends to be a bad idea. Mike talked to one guy there whose friend had recently discovered a dead body in the water. That is traumatic.
Earlier this year an Australian died on the river whose father is a powerful player in Australia’s media. Due to the father’s impact and media efforts, many of the swings and ziplines were dismantled four days before we arrived. I don’t know how accurate that information is, but I do know that most of the swings, slides, and ziplines were gone.
I declined tubing having been warned about the potential for contracting infections (conjunctivitis and cystisis) from the water. Mike went for it and said it was not nearly the adventure it had been two years ago. Before it had been more of a water jungle gym with some drinking. This time is was heavy enthusiasm to partake in drinking games and… not too many people around to play them.
The town is also sad because of how the tourism has affected the locals. I suppose they don’t enjoy having to clean up the mess or witness the making of it. I’ve also read that some of the locals are wary of bad spirits near the water, since so many tourists have died in the river.
My actual experience in Vang Vieng wasn’t so bad. I didn’t tube or stay out until the wee hours so I escaped much of the debauchery. Unfortunately, the sky was hazy so I couldn’t see the beautiful surroundings that I was actually looking forward to seeing. Plus, the motorbike we rented wasn’t very powerful. It didn’t make exploring outside of town very comfortable. Mostly, the two nights we spent in Vang Vieng just felt like wasted time.
I’ve read about a bajillion articles, blogs, and forums about Vang Vieng but I think this one from the Guardian explains it all the best. It was written just a few days after we left.
I’m curious to hear what some of you might think. I met a Swiss woman who was planning to take her 13 and 15 year old tubing… I wasn’t sure if she was trying to be a “really cool parent” or was just wasn’t aware of the details.
xo, jill
PS All of these photos are near our hotel. The party scene is up the river a few kilometers.
Despite the sh*tholery you suggest, and the frat boy atmosphere you imply, I still enjoyed the photos!
I don’t think you sound like a grandma! 😉
I have to admit, one of the things that I have always seen myself doing in Laos is tubing down the Nam Song. But in my mind, I’ve always thought of it as a really lazy, laidback excursion, as I have absolutely no interest in the crazy backpacker party scene, or engaging in dangerous diving, etc., I literally just wanted to get in a tube and float down the river. Reading that Guardian article, now I’m not so sure. It sounds like the atmosphere is pretty dreadful and caustic, and really not my kind of place. Maybe it’s one of those things you have to see for yourself, I don’t know. I’ll keep an open mind about Vang Vieng, but maybe I should start looking into other idyllic Laotian destinations!
Well, I think if you get started at 8am, it would be pretty peaceful. All the young kiddos would still be fast asleep. This is another place that we felt really old. It seemed like most tourists were 18-22 or so. Or at the very least behaving as if they were 18-22! Luckily, VV is between Vientiane and Luang Prabang so if you get there and don’t like it, you can move on easily the next day.
Hehe, thanks!
Thanks, Shauna. I wish the visibility would have been better so I could have seen more than just what was in front of our room.
I visited Van Vieng on my first trip to Asia – 7 years ago. It was a really chill place, but with drugs and tubing. It was a party, but not anything close to what it’s turned into now. My husband wanted to go when we were in Laos on this trip – I sent him there by himself, and I went to another city instead. It’s too crazy now, just no fun anymore. It’s quite sad, because it is such a beautiful place… I don’t blame you for not liking it – but do know that if you do venture out of town, it is still a gem of a spot (away from the crazy part travelers – where the locals live and fish).
You’re right. I was looking forward to getting outside of town but our motorbike was awful. Riding that thing for 10 minutes I had a horrible headache and achy back… tried to do a little hike anyways and just lost steam/got frustrated. Ended up getting a massage instead!
Wow – that’s an insane amount of deaths! I’m guessing no government intervention? Surely there must be better places to visit here, lesser known and equally beautiful without the drama?
I feel the same way about Vang Vieng as I do about the Full Moon Party – I’m curious to see what all the hype is about, but pre-emptively convinced that it’ll be mildly horrifying, haha! 😉
I read the article on the Guardian when it came out – it’s sad to hear about the loss of life and the negative impact this form of tourism has had on the community. I know Vang Vieng is one of the the ‘it’ spots along the SE Asia trail, but I just have no desire to experience it…