Archives for 2010

White and sandy, please!

After our adventurous stay in Chiang Mai, Molly and I were ready for some beach time. We took a flight from Bangkok to Trat in the eastern most corner of Thailand. From there we took a very expensive taxi and a ferry to the island, Ko Chang.

We picked a guesthouse offering huts in an area of the island called, Lonely Beach [misnomer!]. The Sunflower not only offers easy access to all the local bars, it’s also nestled between the numerous tattoo parlors as well! Not our scene.

Despite feeling a bit disappointed with our location, we headed out to the beach. Unfortunately, on Molly’s first dash into the water something nasty down there sliced up her foot. This officially put us on a relaxation only schedule for the next few days. Which was harder than you might expect.

While poking around a bit, we noticed some signage for a guesthouse located in a more remote area of the island. Early the next morning we jumped into the tiny jump seats of a truck and headed out to Treehouse Long Beach.

Um… we didn’t exactly realize that this little stretch of the island is nearly impossible to reach. It took an hour (or more?) to reach our destination and some extreme 4×4 driving. The road was completely washed out in places… As we were driving in I was pretty puzzled as to how we’d ever get back out again… and in time to catch the ferry to catch our flight back to Bangkok. I can’t not think about these things!

Thankfully, this guesthouse turned out to be much more of the experience we were hoping to enjoy. A hut on the beach for 350 baht [35 dirham or less than $10] a night [split between two people], no electricity before 6pm, white sandy beach, no tourist traps… and um, no showers…

We spent our time reading on the beach, sleeping on the beach, and taking some forays into the tealy blue water.

Turns out… my worries as to how we would get back to civilization were founded. We needed to leave the guesthouse at 7am to make our ferry and flight. Our guesthouse taxi makes one run per day… at 8am. The other option was to pay them for a special run at four times the price… in addition to the taxi fee we’d already prepaid at the airport for our return trip. On a whim we decided to walk over to the only other guesthouse in the vacinity. The proprietor there agreed to let us tag along while he drove his kids to school. He’d take us to the ferry station for only double the price of our original ride in. Not a bad deal.

The ride wasn’t smooth [in the back of a pickup truck] but it deposited us at the ferry station with plenty of time to make our flight. Thank goodness!

At all.

There’s a certain romance about train travel. Overnight train travel especially has an allure to it. I mean, until you actually do it.

We booked an overnight train from Chiang Mai back down to Bangkok in order to make a flight out to the beach the next morning.

The food on board was expensive and not so delicious. We could have easily split one serving and saved some money and waste.

Then the cockroaches appeared. With neither of us wanting to sleep in the bottom bunk (closest to the bugs), we settled the matter with an Uno tournament. I’m quite happy to report (and was even happier in the moment) that I emerged the champion. I honestly don’t know if victory has been any sweeter…

And here’s another photo from the trip that always makes me laugh.

I fell asleep and there’s Molly taking photos of herself. Ok… I actually just tricked Molly into making it look like that… but I still think it’s funny!

I’m glad we took the sleeper train… but I don’t think I’d do it again… in Thailand. I’m still keen on having a Darjeeling Limited experience, but I guess I need to go to India for that.

xo, jill

I apologize for the crotch shots.

Our last day in Chiang Mai was another one filled with adventure. We booked a ziplining trip with Flight of the Gibbon. Much like our previous mornings, Molly and I were picked up in a van and driven about an hour outside of the city. This morning in particular brought us high up in the mountainous rainforest. Because of the high altitude’s chilly air, it was recommended that we wear long pants. The only long pants I brought with me were leggings. I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves as to why this was a bad idea. Luckily for you, I edited the worst of the worst out.

But really, you can’t look too bad in helmets and body harnesses… right?

And maybe you’re thinking… “Oh no! Ziplining? Heights? I hope it goes better than rock climbing!” because that’s exactly what Molly and I were thinking that morning. And seeing signs like this didn’t do much to assuage my nerves.

I think you could best describe our guides with the word, “goofballs.” I let it slip that I was just a tiny bit afraid of heights and they pounced. Granted, everyone in our group got the “Oh no! Wait!” trick shouted after them just as the guide pushed us down the line… but I think they especially enjoyed the scare tactics with me. I did have a few more bumpy rides than my counterparts. Watch one of them here:

(my favorite part of this video is where Molly’s lands the camera at the very end… laugh every time)

Fortunately, the goofing around made it easier to relax… and really increased the level of excitement. I responded much better to the adrenaline rush of ziplining than I did the anxious fear of rock climbing.

Basically, ziplining is fantastic! Flight of the Gibbon has the process down. The guides know exactly when to have you pose for photos… they even take over your camera and do all the work for you. I would wholeheartedly recommend using Flight of the Gibbon if you’re ever in need of a Chiang Mai adventure.

One of the sillier lines was called “The Tiger Tail.” Instead of being strapped in from your chest, you are attached to the line from your backside. At the end of the line you crash into a giant net which led our guides to yelling out, “SPIDERMAN!!!” … it was pretty fun.

In case you’re wondering about Molly’s experience… I think it’s safe to say the woman showed no fear. She even attempted to flip upside down on one of the lines!

Here’s a little video of her:

I think our enjoyment was also heightened by our group. Everyone was quite jovial. There was a couple from Oregon, two friends from the UK, and a lone German.

The end of our adventure included a hike to a waterfall and a nice lunch.

The van was kind enough to drop us off at the train station so we were all set to go aboard the overnight train back to Bangkok… an adventure in itself!

xo, jill

With commentary.

I took so many photos at the Nature Elephant Park that I had to whittle it down for the post. Here are a few extras:

First, photos that make me laugh.

This photos reminds me so much of the “revolutionary home haircutting system” the Flowbee, that I chuckle every time.

Out tour guide was very passionate about the elephants… and passionate about photography. He was determined to get the best shot and he did not quit until he did (as in, wouldn’t give the camera back). He knew all the angles and just what to do to make a photo “Beautiful!” This was one that didn’t turn out quite like he was hoping.

Apparently, I’m not a very skilled elephant bather. I didn’t realize it until reviewing the photos… but in nearly everyone I miss the elephant by a good two feet. Oops! Hilarious.

Meet Bruno, poor poor Bruno. Bruno was a sweet Italian man who spoke little English. He somehow mistakenly joined our elephant group while intending to join a different group for mountain biking. Of course, he didn’t mention anything until we’d reached our destination. When the mistake was uncovered Molly asked, “Did you think biker right from the beginning? I did.” I said, “Um, no. I just assumed that was his elephant bathing outfit!”

Now a photo that makes me sad:

This elephant was not cared for properly. The bulls were allowed to mount her so frequently that she broke her hip! It seems as though she’s in a lot of pain, but the park is reluctant to euthanize her. This is because when elephants are really and truly in pain, they will refuse to walk. She’s up and about so she’s doing ok for the time being.

And some others:

Flowers in the garden.

A herd of these guys live here too.

Our tour guide set up this shot:

This one too:

Yep, I stuck my hand in there.

Scrubbing some buns. I’m a marginally bettter bun scrubber than I am splasher.

Molly’s a good splasher.

This was my first experience elephant feeding. I was a bit timid at first… but it’s quite exciting!

Molly and I are out in the water in this shot. I’m mostly terrified that I’m going to drop my camera or fall in the water… but I’m also glad I finally got it back from our tour guide.

And have I mentioned that when Lek first began her efforts to save the elephants, she had to go into hiding? Going up against the illegal logging industry and the very lucrative elephant tourist industry was a very dangerous endeavor. What an amazing woman to continue with her efforts when faced with such opposition.

xo, jill

Also known as Awesome Town for Elephants.

That last post was a bit of a bum out. Honestly, I had to tell you all of that. Otherwise you wouldn’t be able to fathom just how amazing the Elephant Nature Park is… or worse, you might have gone off and rode an elephant!

The Elephant Nature Park all began with a Thai woman, Sangduen “Lek” Chailert. Growing up with a respect for elephants, Lek was appalled at how the animals were being treated when she began working in the elephant tourism industry. She began efforts to save as many elephants as she could. In 1995 the Elephant Nature Park, a sanctuary for abused elephants, was founded.

Early in the morning a van picked us up and we started our approximately 1 hour journey to the park. I really appreciated that the Nature Park did their best to maximize our time. The tour guide immediately began introducing us to their project and then played a short tv episode featuring Thai elephants and the park in particular.

Arriving at the park we joined up with other groups of visitors. Some visitors come for the day, like us, other stay overnight, and a lucky few are able to spend weeks in the park as volunteers and interns. We learned the rules of the park and headed out to meet the elephants.

Unlike elephants kept under different circumstances, the elephants at the park are not chained down during the day. They are free to wander the grounds and form family units of their choosing. The elephants form friendships and generally live a life of leisure. Because the park is not fenced, the elephants are chained during the night. This keeps the elephants off the private property in the area. You can imagine the kind of damage an elephant could do if it wandered into your garden. The locals have not reacted well when this has happened in the past so keeping the elephants tied down is the best option.

After mingling with the elephants a bit we got the chance to feed them lunch. Each elephant has a unique diet and you must be careful to not mix their food. This can be tricky when mischievous elephants use their trunks to snatch their friend’s food out of the basket or even out of your hand!

All of the approximately 3o elephants in the park have been rescued from horrible situations. Situations that make you want to cry. I’ll briefly tell you about Jokia:

After the logging ban in 1989/1990, Jokia was unemployed. The family that owned her sold her to an illegal logging operation where she worked for the next few years. Evenutally, Jokia became pregnant. While working (no maternity leave for elephants!) Jokia gave birth to her baby. In a scene I don’t even want to imagine, the baby fell out and rolled down the hill behind her. She was not allowed to stop and tend to her baby. When Jokia was finally able to return to her baby, she discovered it was dead. Heartbroken and furious, Jokia refused to work. In order to compel her to work again, her mahout used a slingshot to blind her in one eye. Jokia went back to work for a few more weeks although she became very angry and dangerous to be around. Her mahout figured that she’d become more submissive if he blinded her completely. This time he used a bow and arrow. Not surprisingly, this only worsened the situation. Jokia became even more dangerous and refused to listen to commands. Thankfully, Lek found Jokia and persuaded her owner to sell her to the park. Now Jokia lives a peaceful life. She even has a bodyguard in one of the other elephants who accompanies her around the park. Each elephant has a story. Read more about them here.

After the elephants eat they are keen for a little wash in the river. The visitors to the park are encouraged to get in the water and give the elephants a good splash. It was a lot of fun to scrub and splash elephants. I can’t say it’s something I ever predicted I would do!

We also had the chance to view the baby elephants. It’s not safe for visitors to get too close to the babies, so we peeked at them from a viewing platform. I have to say… baby elephants are cute… and also really weird looking. Right?

After watching the documentary that I mentioned in the previous post, we had another chance to feed and splash the elephants.

Our tour guide was a bit sneaky and convinced us to touch an elephant tongue (which was against the rules!).

We even got some kisses during the day.

I left the park that day feeling really positive. I felt like I met an organization that really understands the problem they are trying to solve… and doing a fantastic job. They invite people in to witness elephants in a very natural habitat. The elephants are not forced to perform tricks (except the kisses!) or carry visitors on their backs. It doesn’t take much convincing to realize the genuine awesomeness of these creatures. Personally, I’ve happily added the Elephant Nature Park to the list of organizations I support. No pressure, but if you ever find yourself looking for a good cause… you can easily help the park here.

I also appreciated the organization’s attitude towards tourists and traditional elephant tourism. Our guide told one visitor contemplating an elephant trek, “Sure, go ahead. Take a look at their elephants and decide for yourself if they are being treated properly. Decide if they are well fed. Compare our elephants to their elephants and see what you think.” The park could tell visitors to never under any condition engage in the elephant tourism industry (I mean, it is their competition), but they don’t. They are so confident that what they are doing is right that they let the visitor determine his or her own opinion. I really respect that.

Elephant day was my favorite day of our trip.

xo, jill